59m, 2 pitches.
A superb direct line up the middle of the Main Face to reach the middle of Virgo ledge, with an independent finish on the crag above. Start - 2m right of Lunar Wall at a small V-shaped recess.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb groove in back of recess to stance. Step up to flake at arete and climb shallow corner to gain square-cut ledge on the arete. Move up and right to good cracks (crux) leading up the wall to below a final small overhang. Climb directly up through this to reach the Virgo ledge.
2) 5a, 24m. From the right-hand end of the large overhang to the right of Virgo Pitch 4 make an ascending leftwards traverse back over the overhang to gain the nose which is followed to the top.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb groove in back of recess to stance. Step up to flake at arete and climb shallow corner to gain square-cut ledge on the arete. Move up and right to good cracks (crux) leading up the wall to below a final small overhang. Climb directly up through this to reach the Virgo ledge.
2) 5a, 24m. From the right-hand end of the large overhang to the right of Virgo Pitch 4 make an ascending leftwards traverse back over the overhang to gain the nose which is followed to the top.
R.Greene, R. Cowan (Two aid points). /69. S. Billane (One aid point). 9/75. E. Cooper, T. Ryan (First free ascent). /83.
Ticklists
3 Star Mournes , MRes Ticklist , Ireland 3 Star E1-E2 , Ireland 3 Star Multipitches , Irish MCI Multipitch Routes , Multipitches
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Route of Interest
Vertebrae
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Blue Lough Buttress)