UKH Hills - 'Pinnacle Buttress Groove'

60m, 4 pitches. Ollie and I climbed this yesterday, Sunday 16th. Snow below is still very soft. The guidebook description is mince. You can solo the first snow face, with ice it would be even easier. Belay at the top of the snow at the foot of the rock buttress. Climb the left crack up to a chimney with a little overhang which provides an interesting step right to finish on a ledge and belay. This is the first ledge referred to in the guidebook not the second which we assumed. Climb right of this. I tried the left slab / chimney / crack and failed to find a foothold anywhere and gave up. The right ascent leads to the second ledge. From here grunt your way up the chimney to the left and then onto the ridge where you can belay just below out of the wind. ( Tim Clark, 18 Jan 2010)