Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
The original route on this section of wall sees little attention these days. It tackles the long diagonal groove in the face. Start down and left of this below a triangular slab. The first pitch begins at a large dolerite boulder.
1) 5a, 25m. The bold line up the lower wall feels serious. A stiff move off the scree gains a broken ledge system that heads up to the base of a slab. Bold technical climbing up its edge leads to a steep wall. Head back left to a bore-hole (cam) and mantel the sloping ledge to a block belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Move up to a ramp-line leading right to the crack. Follow this to a tree belay.
3) 5a, 35m. Continue up the crack passing a silver birch tree, with a small detour onto the left wall to avoid an annoying bush. Rejoin the crack and climb it to a stepped ledge and block belay.
4) 4b, 30m. Continue up the crack, trending left near the top to an easy exit from the wall as for Opening Gambit. © Rockfax

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High E4
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High E3
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Votes cast 5
High 6a
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Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Darker Angel

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)

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