Restricted Access
July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
One of Joe Brown's original forays into the quarries shows just how bold they were back then. Given how frequently this area of rock exfoliates itself, it is a wonder if any of the original line actually exists.
1) 45m. Pick your way up scree-covered ledges to reach the base of The Quarryman where the bolt belay at the start of Wonderful World... is.
2) 4c, 27m. Traverse rightwards across more questionable terrain to a sloping ledge. A bad step leads up to a bay with a thread belay amongst some boulders.
3) 5a. 35m. Move across the bay to gain the far arete. Above used to be the 'banana flake' - its integrity is demonstrated by its absence. The remaining rock is suspect to say the least. Start to the left of the arete. Climb to better rock and get some gear in thin cracks. Gain the exposed crystal ledge on the arete. Mantel up onto the next ledge. Above is a giant 'Jenga' tower. Ascend this to gain a bay of steep sloping scree. Belay at the back of this.
4) and 5) 70m. Layback up the crack at the back of the bay and take the easiest line up ledges above, stopping occasionally for a belay. Carry on until the fault-line of Hamadryad comes to meet you at a steep wall - belay.
6) Exit leftwards back to safety over a hut roof. It is best to ascend up towards Heaven Walls and follow an incline back down over the top of Yellow Wall to Serengeti. © Rockfax
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Hobbits, Ladders and Tunnels
Grade: XS ***
(Twll Mawr)