Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

95m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic outing up the cliff and the easiest route on the Quarryman Wall. Approach as for The Quarryman.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb the corner/groove past a stud and three bolts to below The Quarryman groove pitch.
2) 6b, 20m. Climb easily right over ledges and around the arete, then move up to a small roof (bolt). Rock up right then back left above the roof and follow the arete past a bolt to a ledge. Use flakes on the right to gain the next bolt, then climb leftwards to the next belay.
3) 6b, 20m. Climb easily rightwards up ledges, then traverse right to the ledge on the edge - bolt. Make one tricky move onto a foothold then jump across the corner to jugs. Continue to the belay.
4) 6a. 20m. The Scoop Dragon. Climb the groove past three bolts and a peg to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start 10m right of The Quarryman at a 2BB below the obvious corner groove.

1. 35m. 6a/b Climb the corner groove past 1 stud and 3 bolts. 2BB below The Quarryman groove pitch.

2. 20m. 6b. Climb easily right over ledges and around the arete, then climb up to a small roof, bolt, rock right then back left above the roof and follow the arete past a bolt to a ledge. Use flakes on the right to gain the next bolt then climb leftwards to the next belay. 2BB.

3. 20m. 6b. Climb easily rightwards up ledges then traverse right to the ledge on the edge, bolt, make one tricky move onto a foothold then jump across the corner to jugs, continue to the belay. 1BB

4. 20m. 6a. The Scoop Dragon. Climb the groove past 3 bolts and 1 peg and so to the top.

Drury, Dawes, Popp 02/Jul/1987.

Ticklists

Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Summer of dreams

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High E7
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High E6
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High E5
Mid E5
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Votes cast 4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
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High 6a
Mid 6a
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Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
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Route of Interest
Cumbrian Yan

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Moelwyn Bach)

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