Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

do first pitch of kinky boots, then from the start of the 2nd pitch traverse out right with midnight cowboy slightly above you (cam in midnight cowboy overlap) and peeping tom below you, on a overlap which vanishes to nothing, smear and palm with no gear(20m), till you can go no further at the end of the slab. set up belay then climb out directly to the top(4c) [Not been verified at this grade - go forewarned!]

Not in CC Guide.

graham moir and dave king(2nd) Apr/2007.

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Route of Interest
Warriors Way

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Spekes Mill Mouth and Brownspear Point)

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