34m.

Rockfax Description
Best climbed in one or two pitches, belaying after P3.
1) 7m. The easy lower slab.
2) 4b, 9m. Step up into the niche and exit left to belay by a good crack. Direct here is harder.
3) 9m. Climb up and right to a good ledge.
4) 10m. Zig leftwards along the ledge to a weakening, then zag back right to a ledge.
5) 10m. Climb straight up through the bulge to gain the easy upper slab. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A little broken, but a good climb of short sharp pitches. Obviously, it is possible to climb this route in one pitch!

Ticklists

"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Colin Kirkus' routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 12 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Found it strange the crux is suggested as being on pitch 2 - didn't notice any hard moves there? The zig zag felt awkward - I'd have gone direct but didn't fancy risking falling onto my partners head as it's directly above the belay ledge! Crux for me was the mantel before the easier top section. I'd grade this Severe 4a.
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βeta: Found it strange the crux is suggested as being on pitch 2 - didn't notice any hard moves there? The zig zag felt awkward - I'd have gone direct but didn't fancy risking falling onto my partners head as it's directly above the belay ledge! Crux for me was the mantel before the easier top section. I'd grade this Severe 4a.
agour 19 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: If you want a hs 4b varient, go direct up the crack at start of p4 (instead of moving left). Gives you the best climbing on the whole route!
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βeta: If you want a hs 4b varient, go direct up the crack at start of p4 (instead of moving left). Gives you the best climbing on the whole route!
C Witter 21 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A good route - at least as good as Marble Slab. Lovely rough rock and lots of short steep pulls on good holds from one ledge to the next. Best as one 40m pitch, slightly straightened out.
βeta?
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βeta: A good route - at least as good as Marble Slab. Lovely rough rock and lots of short steep pulls on good holds from one ledge to the next. Best as one 40m pitch, slightly straightened out.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn Bochlwyd

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 54
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Poor Man's Peuterey

Grade: S 4a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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