114m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Classic ridge climbing providing unique views of Napes Needle. Start in the gap between the needle and main cliff.
1) 12m. Ascend a polished slab and then the wide crack/chimney to a ledge and belay.
2) 20m. Climb the steep wall via a crack, then continue up easier ground to a grassy col and belay under a chimney.
3) 14m. Climb the chimney and move left and up to a ledge.
4) 36m. Move up the corner and step left below an overhang to a crack that is followed to a belay on the ridge. Alternatively, move right below the overhang and up to the ridge.
5) 40m. Move easily along the ridge to the descent line. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Excellent, safe climbing in superb surroundings on good though polished rock. Start from the gap directly behind the Needle.
1.) 12m, climb the very polished slab above to a chimney that trends left to a stance below a steep wall.
2.) 15m, the steep wall above, followed by easier rocks, leads to a broken wall. Climb the wall, then traverse 7m right to the rib.
3.) 25m, follow the rib above, then easy rocks to a corner which is climbed on the right.
4.) 12m, climb the groove on the left. Alternatively, climb the groove for 3m, then traverse right under the overhang and finish straight up.
5.) 33m, easy scrambling to the top.

WP Haskett-Smith (solo) Sep/1884.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , CUMC Ticklist , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Mountaineering Routes in the Lake District , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The Long Routes , UK Holiday Plans , "First Steps" Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2019 Ticklist , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lake District Classic Rock Challenge , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Rock Stars Trad Routes , Lakes 2022 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Lake District Multipitch Diff , Lakes Trad Ticklist , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Dewimpification , Lakes ticklist , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist , British Rock Tour April '24

Feedback

User Date Notes
TylerColeman 8 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Tried this in winter thinking the minor amount of sun it has had during the day would somehow have dried it out. Turns out a large percentage of this route was not in condition at all. Polished areas were wet ice rinks, the grass ledges were damp ice rinks, and even the dry bits of the route were ridiculously slippy. Got benighted halfway up pitch 3 and had to ab off in the dark leaving behind a sling, screwgate, and a 60m rope alongside our dignity. Lowest point of my climbing career thus far, but 10/10 route (of the bits we did anyway), and would happily get benighted again.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried this in winter thinking the minor amount of sun it has had during the day would somehow have dried it out. Turns out a large percentage of this route was not in condition at all. Polished areas were wet ice rinks, the grass ledges were damp ice rinks, and even the dry bits of the route were ridiculously slippy. Got benighted halfway up pitch 3 and had to ab off in the dark leaving behind a sling, screwgate, and a 60m rope alongside our dignity. Lowest point of my climbing career thus far, but 10/10 route (of the bits we did anyway), and would happily get benighted again.
Stanley 10 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great ridge. Lead all but the last pitch. A much better way of heading up and out back towards Honniston - rather than face more scree traversing.
Show beta
βeta: Great ridge. Lead all but the last pitch. A much better way of heading up and out back towards Honniston - rather than face more scree traversing.
watersah 7 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Harder than I was expecting - every pitch gave some entertainment
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder than I was expecting - every pitch gave some entertainment
gammarus 5 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I found the first moves from the gap behind the Needle thin and unprotected, on small polished holds. A very small cam or tricam might work.
Show beta
βeta: I found the first moves from the gap behind the Needle thin and unprotected, on small polished holds. A very small cam or tricam might work.
eldre070 22 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Cold, damp and super polished. Walked off the back and into the scree gully. We avoided the very old tat that would have perhaps dropped us into the gulley earlier but it looked desperate.
Show beta
βeta: Cold, damp and super polished. Walked off the back and into the scree gully. We avoided the very old tat that would have perhaps dropped us into the gulley earlier but it looked desperate.
nath2915 19 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Interesting descent via 35/40m abseil at the end of the ridge followed by scree. The static rope anchor in place has seen some better days, recommend using your own rope.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Interesting descent via 35/40m abseil at the end of the ridge followed by scree. The static rope anchor in place has seen some better days, recommend using your own rope.
Lewis Johnstone 23 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route for climbers at the start of their climbing journey
Show beta
βeta: Great route for climbers at the start of their climbing journey

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
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Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 120
Votes cast 127
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Arrowhead Ridge Direct

Grade: VD ***
(The Napes)

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