Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

12m.

Rockfax Description
The eye-catching slim corner. A difficult and technical start gains the excellent finger-crack. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A difficult and technical start with some polish leads to a fine finger crack. One of the original routes of the quarry and certainly worthy of a star.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye , Orange Spot South Wales Sport , Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6As with stars near Bristol , Desperate for Crack (near Bristol)

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 5 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Original line still climbs fine. If you're under 5'10 or don't know how to squirm then you may struggle with the start.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Original line still climbs fine. If you're under 5'10 or don't know how to squirm then you may struggle with the start.
springfall2008 19 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Best to start on the left (start of Chepstow killer appliances) due to a missing block.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best to start on the left (start of Chepstow killer appliances) due to a missing block.
jk29 19 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky start, eases after the second bolt
Show beta
βeta: Tricky start, eases after the second bolt

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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High 6b
Mid 6b
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High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
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Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
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