One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
The eye-catching slim corner. A difficult and technical start gains the excellent finger-crack. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A difficult and technical start with some polish leads to a fine finger crack. One of the original routes of the quarry and certainly worthy of a star.
Orange Spot Lower Wye , Orange Spot South Wales Sport , Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6As with stars near Bristol , Desperate for Crack (near Bristol)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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PaulJepson | 5 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: Original line still climbs fine. If you're under 5'10 or don't know how to squirm then you may struggle with the start. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Original line still climbs fine. If you're under 5'10 or don't know how to squirm then you may struggle with the start. |
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springfall2008 | 19 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Best to start on the left (start of Chepstow killer appliances) due to a missing block. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Best to start on the left (start of Chepstow killer appliances) due to a missing block. |
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jk29 | 19 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Tricky start, eases after the second bolt | ||
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βeta: Tricky start, eases after the second bolt |
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