Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
05/05/2023 - Reports of the kestrel returning to nest have been received. Until this is fully verified, please refrain from climbing the routes 'Mouse Trap', 'Owl and the Antelope', and 'On Jupiter and Mars'
25/05/2022 - We have now confirmed that there is a kestrel nest halfway up the "Owl and the Antelope". Please refrain from climbing routes in this area from April 15th - July 31st to allow the birds to care for their young.
BMC have been advised that Barn Owls could be nesting at this crag. If so these birds have special protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act. Avoid climbing the routes on the Left Hand Retaining wall "Left Over" to "Half man-Half Machine" inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Climb the slab and high notch to the right of Rockover Beethoven (clip its first two bolts) and then make a difficult rockover above and finish direct. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Eliminate slab climbing (new non shared bolts). Finger nail edges and a mono lead to a heinous stretch for a rounded break. A dynamic move right from a big pocket to a good edge leads to a 'V' notch and grassy ledge. Finish direct. Belay from two stainless staples 3m back from the top.
A Rosier / R Giles 27/Sep/2007.
Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
PaulJepson | 19 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are 2 re-bar staples after topping out. You can't clip these directly because the krab would sit over an edge so take a couple of short slings if you're going to lower off. That's what we did but it will wear your rope out over the edge. Best bet really would be to either walk off or abseil back down the route to strip. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There are 2 re-bar staples after topping out. You can't clip these directly because the krab would sit over an edge so take a couple of short slings if you're going to lower off. That's what we did but it will wear your rope out over the edge. Best bet really would be to either walk off or abseil back down the route to strip. |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Glynfach)