Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Left of Orang-outang - Overhang on the level above Looning the Tube. 3 bolts to a lower off...impossible to grade (ignore the grade on here). An excellent but tricky dyno for the short but a straight forward long reach for the tall!

Ian Lloyd-Jones + Phil Tagett 13/Sep/2007.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6c & 6c+ , Sl@teheads Sl@te

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mike D 16 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Let’s be honest, the 6a grade is nonsense (as is this two entries at different grades). Suggest it would be better to stick with the original 7a grade (as per 2011 guide) and accept it’s easier for the tall (though maybe not by much going by some of the comments below!).
Show beta
βeta: Let’s be honest, the 6a grade is nonsense (as is this two entries at different grades). Suggest it would be better to stick with the original 7a grade (as per 2011 guide) and accept it’s easier for the tall (though maybe not by much going by some of the comments below!).
Nico Marshall 1 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A fun route. All moves can be done statically (short person speaking here), or through straightforward dynos to large jugs. Probably more like 6b+.
Show beta
βeta: A fun route. All moves can be done statically (short person speaking here), or through straightforward dynos to large jugs. Probably more like 6b+.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zone of Totality

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Minllyn Quarry)

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