Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

9m.

Rockfax Description
Gain a diagonal hold at 4m and then head direct on crimps and a tiny side hold to the break. Make a stretch for the ledge above and then go rightwards to a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb direct for 3 bolts; then finish straight up to a newer lower-off. At this grade the main line of concretions to the right of the first 3 bolt are not in (by both hands and feet). Bit of an eliminate.

G Jenkin, T Wilkinson, Y Jones 18/Mar/2006.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6As with stars near Bristol , Soft touches near Bristol

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High 6b
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