Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
Bridge up the groove to the left of the square-cut corner of Turn of the Century. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Arete left of turning the century sharing same lower off. 4 bolts. This is a rather contrived line. On the first ascent the arete was climbed in its entirety to the triangular niche. this involved a one armed mantle and was hard. the grade was a conservative estimate. You need blinkers to repeat it this way so just climb what you want. 5 plus if everything is used.

P. Targett I. Lloyd-Jones 21/Aug/2007.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6a & 6a+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jamdahll 15 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: One of the lower off bolts is falling out
βeta?
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βeta: One of the lower off bolts is falling out
SL77 25 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: As per the rockfax description I bridged the groove and then climbed direct up the face. This was every bit 6a+ I don't know where the 5+ idea comes from but it's wrong!
βeta?
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βeta: As per the rockfax description I bridged the groove and then climbed direct up the face. This was every bit 6a+ I don't know where the 5+ idea comes from but it's wrong!
miguelboland 10 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose flake near the top left
βeta?
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βeta: Loose flake near the top left
jake7 10 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block near the top - be very careful
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βeta: Loose block near the top - be very careful
WyeValleyTashMan 21 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tough and sketchy start clipping the first runner is awkward especially in the wet! Great climb though.
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βeta: Tough and sketchy start clipping the first runner is awkward especially in the wet! Great climb though.

Logged Ascents

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High 6b+
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