200m, 6 pitches.
One of the classic linkups at Caporal. Covers the classic pitches on Tempi Moderni, Orecchio and Rattle Snake at an amenable (and aidable) grade. The 'silver slab' pitch is equipped with pegs and bolts. Apart from belays, the remainder of the route has been de-equipped and is fully trad.
P1 6a - Start up "Via dei Camini" to get to the start of "Orecchio del Pachiderma".
P2 6b - Climb the classic "Orecchio" (ear) pitch
P3 6c - Continue up the "Itaca del Sole" classic 'silver slab' pitch. Hard to free but safe, fully equipped with alternating pegs and bolts, can be easily aided at A0.
P4-6 6a, 6b, 6c - Avoid the last had pitches of "Itaca nel Sole" (8a/A1, 8b/A2) by finishing up the 3 pitches of "Rattlesnake" corner to an exposed finish.
Abseil descent.
P1 6a - Start up "Via dei Camini" to get to the start of "Orecchio del Pachiderma".
P2 6b - Climb the classic "Orecchio" (ear) pitch
P3 6c - Continue up the "Itaca del Sole" classic 'silver slab' pitch. Hard to free but safe, fully equipped with alternating pegs and bolts, can be easily aided at A0.
P4-6 6a, 6b, 6c - Avoid the last had pitches of "Itaca nel Sole" (8a/A1, 8b/A2) by finishing up the 3 pitches of "Rattlesnake" corner to an exposed finish.
Abseil descent.
Ticklists
Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Classic Valle dell'Orco Cracks , Euro Alpine Rock , 100+ Orco Cracks
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Route of Interest
L'Ultima Follia di Sir Biss
Grade: 6c ***
(Sergent)