Restricted Access
Limited parking. Do not block passing places or the crofter's vehicle access to the moorland on the opposite side of the road. Approach through a gate a couple of hundred metres up the road from the isolated cottage.
Some seasons there is a cormorant nest on Spantastic, and another nest down and right of Lucy in the Sky. Check before throwing in an abseil rope.
An exciting route following a line up cracks close to the arete right of Lucy in the Sky. The climbing is excellent, requiring a variety of techniques, with some great situations. Approach by abseiling down the arete which bounds the right hand side of the south face (several stakes in place). A good semi-hanging belay can then be arranged at the bottom of a prominent crack on the south face, just above the wave splashed rocks below.
1. 25m (4c) Climb up the excellent jamming crack until a good ledge is reached. The open groove above is climbed with less difficulty to a belay ledge (take care with loose blocks here).
2. 20m (4b) Traverse left over a huge loose block to the pedestal flake on Spantastic pitch 2. From here, finish as for Spantastic up and left through the break in the upper overhangs.
(Oxford Mountaineering 2000)
1. 25m (4c) Climb up the excellent jamming crack until a good ledge is reached. The open groove above is climbed with less difficulty to a belay ledge (take care with loose blocks here).
2. 20m (4b) Traverse left over a huge loose block to the pedestal flake on Spantastic pitch 2. From here, finish as for Spantastic up and left through the break in the upper overhangs.
(Oxford Mountaineering 2000)
S. Broadbent and K. Wigmore 05/Apr/2000.
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Route of Interest
Dykehead
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Coir' Uisg Buttress)