Rockfax Description
Brilliant and varied climbing set in magnificent surroundings. This description includes The Arete Finish. Start at the bottom of the rampline that rises leftwards under the leaning wall.
1) 14m. Climb the rampline to a stance at its end.
2) 5b, 25m. Climb the tough crack to the left of the overhang above, then continue up a corner until a move left gains a groove. Climb the groove to its end and then go left to a ramp and belay.
3) 5b, 25m. Move back right to a striking crack in the arete. Climb the crack then move right and up the airy rib to the top - all very exposed. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1. 5c. From the ramp belay attack the hand crack and the awkward bulge above to a good rest.The dirty groove above is desperate and leads to a poor resting position below a sustained and delightful groove. At the top of this an easy traverse leads to an easy ramp and belay.
2. 5b. Descend the ramp a little and climb the lovely delicate wall to easier ground. Climb the easy cracks up the right wall to the right arete and sanctuary.
Ticklists
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , A Lakeland E2 Odyssey , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jackmorford | 10 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Pitch one was sopping wet in the groove. It was impassable so ventured out left on the face which felt hard and pumpy but doable. Couldn\'t get much back on the bad rest above and another wet hold combined to see me pinging off. Andy got on it and sailed through it, I then joined him without too much difficulty and led the second pitch which was delightful! Needs a good couple of days to dry - Ichabod next to it was absolutely streaming with water from top to bottom. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch one was sopping wet in the groove. It was impassable so ventured out left on the face which felt hard and pumpy but doable. Couldn't get much back on the bad rest above and another wet hold combined to see me pinging off. Andy got on it and sailed through it, I then joined him without too much difficulty and led the second pitch which was delightful! Needs a good couple of days to dry - Ichabod next to it was absolutely streaming with water from top to bottom. |
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| John Kettle | 26 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: From the niche to the Ichabod Abseil (via arete finish) can be done in one big pitch on 50m ropes with about 4m to spare. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: From the niche to the Ichabod Abseil (via arete finish) can be done in one big pitch on 50m ropes with about 4m to spare. |
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| im off | 8 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did arete finish. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Did arete finish. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Scafell East Buttress
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Praying Mantis Direct
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Goat Crag, Borrowdale)