Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A direct on Insectitude and relatively popular. Well protected.
1) 4c, 9m. Climb the wide crack to a small overhang. Make a long reach to gain good holds and jams. Pull up to the large belay ledge at the faultline just above.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the chimney and corner-crack above, moving left just below the top to avoid loose ground.
Jung Spice, HVS 5a - Tackle the slab and steep groove on the left to a ledge. Finish up the arete. © Rockfax
FA. K.Turner, G.A.Jenkin 1984.
Ticklists
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Dorset Routes that are worth doing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JimOakleyAdventures | 26 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Two stakes at top in align provide a simple 35m abseil down to the base. Avoid spring tide and no more than 1m SW winds ! Easy start followed by crux at 6m with fully protectable CAM & nut to pullover the difficulty. If your under 5’8” - good luck ! The rest is all good with last 2 m at top going left to avoid loose rocks. Stakes are 15m back from top. Using 60m doubles - fine | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Two stakes at top in align provide a simple 35m abseil down to the base. Avoid spring tide and no more than 1m SW winds ! Easy start followed by crux at 6m with fully protectable CAM & nut to pullover the difficulty. If your under 5’8” - good luck ! The rest is all good with last 2 m at top going left to avoid loose rocks. Stakes are 15m back from top. Using 60m doubles - fine |
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| fatwallawoods | 15 Oct, 2017 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hard and committing move to complete the first pitch. Place your gear, reach, trust the finger jams, get you feet high and just go for it! Second pitch is great, safe and very amenable climbing for the Ruckle, good introduction to the environment along this cliff | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Hard and committing move to complete the first pitch. Place your gear, reach, trust the finger jams, get you feet high and just go for it! Second pitch is great, safe and very amenable climbing for the Ruckle, good introduction to the environment along this cliff |
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| Ciderslider | 29 Sep, 2012 |
Show βeta
βeta: Why has nobody commented or voted on this route - it's a hidden gem. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Why has nobody commented or voted on this route - it's a hidden gem. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Freda
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)