Rockfax Description
The easiest route on the face and consequently a popular excursion for newcomers to trad climbing. Generally good rock and a logical line.
Start on the right side of the split in the face, just right of Via Irma.
1) IV+, 25m. Climb a crack, initially easy then becoming steeper, to a stance on the left.
2) IV, 30m. Continue in the same line following the continuation crack.
3) IV-, 35m. Continue in the crack then follow the corner-chimney above.
4) IV-, 35m. Aim for the roof above, climbing the right of three wide cracks, then move diagonally right below the roof to a yellow niche.
5) IV, 40m. Climb direct up a corner-chimney, overcoming an bulge on good holds, to a stance on a ledge.
6) IV, 40m. Climb direct from the belay and enter a narrow chimney crack. Climb this - sometimes wet - then exit left for a couple of moves before moving back into the chimney. Continue more easily on the left to a ledge.
7) IV, 35m. Climb the cracked rock above, moving right. Overcome a bulge and continue in the crack before making a short traverse right to the stance in a niche below a ramp.
8) III+, 30m. Climb the vegetated ramp more easily.
9) III, 30m. Continue in the same line.
10) II, 25m. Easy scrambling leads to the Chamois Terrace. © Rockfax
Del Torso, Lezuo 1935.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
peakschris | 12 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good day out. Pretty loose and gear was sparse, so although the climbing felt easy it felt scary at times. Rockfax is misleading on the descent - follow the terrace left and do not descend until you've gone past a very exposed section with via-ferrata-style wire. The path then ascends before arriving at a 20m abseil (we saw someone downclimbing this) and then a 25m abseil (or easier downclimb). You end up pretty much under 2nd sella tower then follow the path back east to the car parking | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good day out. Pretty loose and gear was sparse, so although the climbing felt easy it felt scary at times. Rockfax is misleading on the descent - follow the terrace left and do not descend until you've gone past a very exposed section with via-ferrata-style wire. The path then ascends before arriving at a 20m abseil (we saw someone downclimbing this) and then a 25m abseil (or easier downclimb). You end up pretty much under 2nd sella tower then follow the path back east to the car parking |
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Grade: IV ***
(Monte Popena Basso)