Rockfax Description
A classic route combining face, crack and corner climbing. Unfortunately suffering a little from its popularity, the rock is polished in places. Most parties exit right after the fifth pitch to join the Schober/Kleisl (Rossi) route, but there is now a direct finish which follows the short upper arete.
Start on the right of the left pillar, just below and right of a large corner.
1) VI-, 40m. Ascend the grey rocks at the base then move left on a ledge below the large corner. Follow this, which narrows to form a tight chimney (rucksack wearers beware!). Trend slightly left to reach a stance below a yellow corner-crack.
2) VI-, 20m. Move left and up for 2m then traverse back right to enter the yellow crack. Climb this direct to a stance on a ledge below a gully.
3) V+, 20m. Step left and climb a corner-crack, then follow a yellow flake left to avoid a bulge. Climb direct to a stance on a detached block.
4) III, 30m. Climb the vegetated rock above direct (alternatively move right and climb a corner - harder at IV+) then follow a technical crack to reach a ledge. Follow this right.
5) V+, 40m. Climb direct to a niche and move right from this. Follow moves up the pocketed face up and left to reach a black crack (possible belay in case of rope drag). Climb the crack direct, pull through a bulge and continue to reach easy-angled rock leading right.
Exit right and follow a ledge, with an intermediate stance shared with Icterus, to join the final pitch of the Schober/Kleisl (Rossi) route, or alternatively continue as below:
Direct Finish
6) VI, 40m. Follow pitch 5 to the ledge then traverse left and climb a steep face direct. Move left to reach an arete, and climb this trending right on ever easier ground to exit onto the ledge below the summit. © Rockfax

Tissi 1936.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet

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