Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.

Rockfax Description
Start from a pair of undercut slots below and left of a triangular jug. Gain the triangular jug and head leftward on slopers and small edges to an exit on the left side of the boulder. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rockfax Dorset Bouldering Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset Bouldering: Top 50

Feedback

User Date Notes
Adam Jaggard 30 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose hold in middle of route, maybe it’s been that way forever?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose hold in middle of route, maybe it’s been that way forever?

Logged Ascents

51 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Lulworth

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 28 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Night With a Trucker

Grade: f7A+ ***
(Southwell Landslips)

Loading Notifications...