Rockfax Description
Some bold climbing on the initial wall of the first pitch. Start at a slab left of the corner of The Shroud as for The Coffin.
1) 5a, 25m. Climb up to a ledge, move right and boldly climb to a large vegetated ledge. Continue up the wall and follow a corner/groove left of some overhangs to a slab. Traverse right for 5m to a stance shared with The Shroud.
2) 5b, 30m. Traverse back left. Where the large overhang above fades, climb up and then right to gain the start of a long groove. Follow the groove to a large vegetated ledge on the right and belay here.
3) 4a, 18m. Move back left and climb the dirty rib to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Caff's Cool E1s List , 60 At 60

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rick Sewards 13 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The description in the Wired guide is wrong - it gives a a 44m first pitch which is the old 1st and 2nd pitches combined (sensibly enough, as the belay is way off to the side on The Shroud) but then describes a 33m 2nd pitch which is the \"old\" 2nd pitch (so repeats the 2nd half of the first pitch as described!) - hence the rather improbably overall length given of 104m
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The description in the Wired guide is wrong - it gives a a 44m first pitch which is the old 1st and 2nd pitches combined (sensibly enough, as the belay is way off to the side on The Shroud) but then describes a 33m 2nd pitch which is the "old" 2nd pitch (so repeats the 2nd half of the first pitch as described!) - hence the rather improbably overall length given of 104m

Logged Ascents

174 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Black Crag (Borrowdale)

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 17 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 35
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Night of the Hot Pies

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Cathedral Quarry/Black Hole)

Loading Notifications...