Rockfax Description
Excellent climbing that is sustained and pumpy but on generally good holds. Start under the long low overhang.
1) 4c, 35m. Traverse left to below a groove at the left end of the low overhang. Climb the wall left of the groove, then transfer across it to the right wall and follow it to a terrace.
2) 4a, 10m. Climb the wall above via a crack to a belay. Finish and descend as for Middlefell Buttress or abseil from the left end of the ledge (looking in). © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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C Witter | 24 Apr |
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βeta: Definitive VS 4c and lovely open, slightly steep climbing that is more enjoyable, IMO, than Bilberry Buttress. The rock is really clean, not lichen-covered. However, the micro-route finding is a little tricky, judging by logbook comments. You go a little further left than expected at the start, then a bit further right than expected at the traverse. As you traverse right, there is a vague groove with lots of lichen, which is climbable at a similar grade but is the incorrect line. If you traverse two metres further right to a good hold/short spike, you find yourself below another groove of clean rock, which is the correct line. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitive VS 4c and lovely open, slightly steep climbing that is more enjoyable, IMO, than Bilberry Buttress. The rock is really clean, not lichen-covered. However, the micro-route finding is a little tricky, judging by logbook comments. You go a little further left than expected at the start, then a bit further right than expected at the traverse. As you traverse right, there is a vague groove with lots of lichen, which is climbable at a similar grade but is the incorrect line. If you traverse two metres further right to a good hold/short spike, you find yourself below another groove of clean rock, which is the correct line. |
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Buckers360 | 30 Mar |
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βeta: Found the route finding tricky, lots of lichen all around | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found the route finding tricky, lots of lichen all around |
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neuromancer | 21 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: FRCC description is way off; the dark groove is to be ignored - go past until you reach a pinnacle then start climbing upwards before traversing back right. | βeta? | |
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βeta: FRCC description is way off; the dark groove is to be ignored - go past until you reach a pinnacle then start climbing upwards before traversing back right. |
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Lakesben | 20 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Led P2 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Led P2 |
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DavidR | 15 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Please note that there's a large loose block at the very top of the 2nd pitch of Mendes. It's basically the block folk are likely to use as a belay as there are cracks around it, but the whole thing showed signs of movement earlier. Please take extra care. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Please note that there's a large loose block at the very top of the 2nd pitch of Mendes. It's basically the block folk are likely to use as a belay as there are cracks around it, but the whole thing showed signs of movement earlier. Please take extra care. |
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Rog Wilko | 4 Sep, 2010 |
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βeta: Though I've done this route on several occasions it never fails to give me a buzz. Holds are so good it's not really harder than 4b. Ran pitches 1 & 2 together which saves using the very inconvenient stance and improves the route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Though I've done this route on several occasions it never fails to give me a buzz. Holds are so good it's not really harder than 4b. Ran pitches 1 & 2 together which saves using the very inconvenient stance and improves the route. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Gimmer Crag)