Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

24m.

Rockfax Description
An interesting aid route exiting the smaller left-hand cave, including a bit of downhill climbing to pass the lip. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This route is in dangerous condition,it needs rebolting as the bolts are very old.

Ticklists

Aid climbing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mike Hood 2 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First bold is missing a nut. There is a thread above the hole, you can sling this and lean out from to clip the next bolt, which is good. Some of the bolts are quite old, and others are covered in calcite, but look okay. There is a big reach down to the bolt on the underside of the lowest point of the arch. I swung out to this from the foot of my etrier, before releasing it using the pull-cord on my fifi hook. This meant a heavy drop onto the next, bolt which is quite old. There is a huge gap between the last bolt and the lower off. It would be possible to free-climb this, but it's quite steep. I did an extra aid move from a good skyhook before reaching the tree. It might be possible to lasso the tree with a length of rope instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First bold is missing a nut. There is a thread above the hole, you can sling this and lean out from to clip the next bolt, which is good. Some of the bolts are quite old, and others are covered in calcite, but look okay. There is a big reach down to the bolt on the underside of the lowest point of the arch. I swung out to this from the foot of my etrier, before releasing it using the pull-cord on my fifi hook. This meant a heavy drop onto the next, bolt which is quite old. There is a huge gap between the last bolt and the lower off. It would be possible to free-climb this, but it's quite steep. I did an extra aid move from a good skyhook before reaching the tree. It might be possible to lasso the tree with a length of rope instead.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dovedale

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Voting
High A3
Mid A3
Low A3
High A2
Mid A2
Low A2
High A1
Mid A1
Low A1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Band Aid

Grade: A2 ***
(Masson Lees Quarry)

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