Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

Rockfax Description
Start matched on undercuts to the left of Future Proof, make tricky moves to join Future Proof at the steep groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start matched on undercuts a metre and a half ish to the left side of Bury My Heart, make a few tricky moves to meet this on the big block and finish as per the normal exit.

Likely now defunct after major hold loss.

Jack Palmieri 05/Jul/2022.

Ticklists

Peak Limestone 8's

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High f8A+
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High f8A
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High f7C+
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Route of Interest
Big Willy Attitude

Grade: f8A ***
(Stanage North)

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