Rockfax Description
250m. The classic route of the sector put up in the 60's weaves about the steep face finding its weaknesses. It is predominantly a trad route so a rack is needed but the belays are bolted. The start is just left of a metal plaque on the wall.
1) 5a. Climb the rampline out right.
2) 5b. Climb the pegged corner above the belay and then head right up the slab.
3) 5b. Head right around the roof to grassy ledges.
4) 5c. Climb up and left to a corner, follow this to the belay.
5) 6a. Climb up and right through steep ground and swing round onto the face (don't continue up the corner).
6) 5c. Traverse out right into the chimney and follow this for 30m until pegs lead out right to ledges.
7) 5b. Climb the crack above, which leads to easier ground and then climb a pegged corner to get to the top of the spur.
8) 3c. Follow easy ground to the summit.
Descent - Either abseil down Dernière Neige from the top of pitch 7 or continue to the summit and follow the ridge passing difficulties on the right. At the first Brèche, cross through and follow a vague track on the left of the ridge to a spur on the left. Pass to the other side of this to find an abseil anchor which takes you to scree slopes in a 50m abseil. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed. , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range

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