Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

27m. Climb Easel-EE into Painted Groove. F8a

Caff 19/Sep/2021.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si Witcher 25 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 6 drilled/glued anchors on Easel-EE, and then 2 hammered pegs and 1 more drilled/glued bolt on the Painted Groove finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 6 drilled/glued anchors on Easel-EE, and then 2 hammered pegs and 1 more drilled/glued bolt on the Painted Groove finish.
johnyo 26 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This is fully pegbolted. Top out needs some care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is fully pegbolted. Top out needs some care.

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Route of Interest
Bats In The Belfry

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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