Rockfax Description
IV, 740m. A very contrasting route to the Contamine featuring mostly delicate slab climbing put up by the ever prolific Piola. A climb for the modern age. There are quite a few bolts on this route and the belays are bolted, however, a full rack is needed. Start on ledges to the right of the large corner of the Contamine.
1) 5c. A slab and then a corner to reach a belay below a roof.
2) 6b+. Climb up and left past several bolts to the roof and pull through this to gain easier ground and a belay on the left.
3) 6a. Follow the slab and block above passing several bolts.
4) 6a+. Head up the pillar above.
5) 6a. Climb a slab to the ledge that the Contamine crosses on.
6) 6a+. Continue up the wall above the belay passing bolts.
7) 6a. Climb a crack on the right.
8) 6b. Next is a bolted slab right of a pillar.
9) 6b+. Climb a corner on the right and pull through the roof passing bolts to reach slabby ground above.
10) 6b. Continue up the slab above following the odd bolt. Continue like this for four rope lengths to the ledge where the Contamine route junctions.
11) 6a+. Follow more slabby climbing directly above the belay trending right near the top.
12) 6a+. Continue up the slab passing a small roof (bolts).
13) 6a. More slab climbing leading into a crack system.
14) 6a. Follow the bolted slab (or follow the crack system to the right at 5b).
15) Follow the line of weakness to the top in four rope lengths (4a, 4b, 4c, 4c) these generally follow crack systems around the slabs. The slabs can be climbed also (and there are the odd bolts) but are a bit trickier. © Rockfax

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