Restricted Access

The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Flying Doctor The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).

Rockfax Description
A superb addition tackling the overhanging prow. Start at the bottom of the chimney and gain the leaning prow which is followed on finger pockets. The original version moved left but the mega direct finish now gives a magnificent long route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Now fully bolted direct from top to bottom with a a slightly harder proper finish. (This older version should remain on here for previous logbook ticks only).

Mark Pretty 2005.

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
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