Restricted Access
Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.
There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.
Rockfax Description
Follow Geordie War Cry to the good hold before the traverse right to the arete. Clip a bolt on the left and climb direct. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Follow Geordie War Cry to the good hold before the traverse out to the arete.
Clip a bolt high on the left, then make a few hard fingers moves to reach a jug at the last bolt of Geordie War Cry. Finish up Geordie War Cry.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry
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The Rock Bottom Line
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Twll Mawr)