60m, 2 pitches.
A short but pleasant climb which takes the icy groove system between Nereid Gully and Day of The Doctor.
Start at the foot of the groove system
1. 35m. Climb the groove with an awkward step back left after 20m to belay at the base of the upper groove.
2. 25m. Continue up the groove, moving left up the V-groove near the top and finish leftwards to the horizontal ridge crest.
30m rightwards down the horizontal ridge crest is a large block with an in-situ sling and crab. A 60m abseil from here leads back to the base of the route.
Note – on its first ascent the groove system was climbed mostly on ice. It would be possible, but probably harder, in less icy conditions.
Start at the foot of the groove system
1. 35m. Climb the groove with an awkward step back left after 20m to belay at the base of the upper groove.
2. 25m. Continue up the groove, moving left up the V-groove near the top and finish leftwards to the horizontal ridge crest.
30m rightwards down the horizontal ridge crest is a large block with an in-situ sling and crab. A 60m abseil from here leads back to the base of the route.
Note – on its first ascent the groove system was climbed mostly on ice. It would be possible, but probably harder, in less icy conditions.
Simon Yearsley & Malcolm Bass 22/Jan/2014.
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Route of Interest
North East Buttress
Grade: IV 5 ***
(Ben Nevis)