83m, 3 pitches.
A stupendous route on beautiful, immaculate granite in an unspoilt, idyllic, remote location. Visit this crag before you die!!
HVS, 4c,5a,4c. This route takes the obvious curving ramp leading up to a large overhang at the left hand side of the face, providing two excellent pitches in a very impressive situation. Start: as for Byzantium. 1.17m As for Byzantium.
2.38m From belay move up to the base of a heather filled corner on the right. Step right onto the arete and airily swing round right onto the wall to gain a good crack. Follow this up to the corner from where diagonal cracks and a narrow ramp lead with increasing difficulty across the smooth open slab. About 5m below the large overhang belay on a small ledge below a good crack.
3.28m Climb the crack above swinging left past the overhang on excellent holds. Continue up the corner crack above. Finish by the arete on the left or the awkward chimney.
HVS, 4c,5a,4c. This route takes the obvious curving ramp leading up to a large overhang at the left hand side of the face, providing two excellent pitches in a very impressive situation. Start: as for Byzantium. 1.17m As for Byzantium.
2.38m From belay move up to the base of a heather filled corner on the right. Step right onto the arete and airily swing round right onto the wall to gain a good crack. Follow this up to the corner from where diagonal cracks and a narrow ramp lead with increasing difficulty across the smooth open slab. About 5m below the large overhang belay on a small ledge below a good crack.
3.28m Climb the crack above swinging left past the overhang on excellent holds. Continue up the corner crack above. Finish by the arete on the left or the awkward chimney.
D Stelfox, U MacPherson, I Rea 04/Apr/1981.
Ticklists
Ireland 3 Star HVS , Ireland 3 Star Multipitches , Irish MCI Multipitch Routes , Top 10
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Route of Interest
Shiny Cossacks
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dunmore, Culdaff)