150m, 4 pitches.
A gobsmacking adventure route up the centre of the cliff. Plenty of pegs and warthogs are essential. To reach the route descend steep grassy slopes below the coast path to the south of the cliff (in the direction of Tintagel). Cross the boulder beach at mid to low tide, then clamber up to broad ledges below the cliff. The route starts up a prominent rib/arete, right of a large corner in the middle of the cliff.
1. 50m, 5b. Climb the rib of a tall pedestal to reach its top, then pull left onto a wall of compact rock. From here climb up to reach a large belay ledge on the left.
2. 40m, 5b. Traverse right from the belay, following a thin break in the slab to reach a wide crack. Ascend the crack to a large niche on the right (various fixed tat here). Go left out of the niche and climb the steep wall (skirting to the left of undercut cracks) to reach an overhang (large cams useful). Pull out rightwards to a peg belay on a narrow ledge on the face to the right.
3. 40m, 5b. Climb straight up from the belay until beneath the roof. Traverse slightly right and surmount the overhang at its righthand end. Move left and up, to reach a sandy break which bounds the top edge of the slab. Tiptoe left to about half way, then move up off the slab via a crack, moving leftwards through a broken corner to perch on a small belay ledge using warthogs.
4. 20m, 5a. From the belay climb up diagonally left to reach another small ledge. Good pegs can be placed here, before climbing straight up the decaying wall above to reach the top.
1. 50m, 5b. Climb the rib of a tall pedestal to reach its top, then pull left onto a wall of compact rock. From here climb up to reach a large belay ledge on the left.
2. 40m, 5b. Traverse right from the belay, following a thin break in the slab to reach a wide crack. Ascend the crack to a large niche on the right (various fixed tat here). Go left out of the niche and climb the steep wall (skirting to the left of undercut cracks) to reach an overhang (large cams useful). Pull out rightwards to a peg belay on a narrow ledge on the face to the right.
3. 40m, 5b. Climb straight up from the belay until beneath the roof. Traverse slightly right and surmount the overhang at its righthand end. Move left and up, to reach a sandy break which bounds the top edge of the slab. Tiptoe left to about half way, then move up off the slab via a crack, moving leftwards through a broken corner to perch on a small belay ledge using warthogs.
4. 20m, 5a. From the belay climb up diagonally left to reach another small ledge. Good pegs can be placed here, before climbing straight up the decaying wall above to reach the top.
Lee Bartrop & Luke Holmes (Alt Ld) 22/Aug/2021.
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Route of Interest
Bird Brain
Grade: XS 5b ***
(Lye Rock)