55m, 2 pitches.
SMC J2020
In good icy conditions an ice smear can form which allows a line that approximates to the summer crux (p2) of Tough Brown Ridge Direct to be climbed. When combined with a more direct first pitch this makes an independent start that is more direct up the buttress before easier ground is reached on pitch 3 of Tough Brown Ridge Direct.
1. 30m Start 5m further up Raeburn's Gully than Tough Brown Ridge Direct at the foot of a corner leading straight up to grooves that continue directly upwards. Follow these until a snow bay at the base of a large triangular wall is reached and belay at a flake on the wall on the left. (Tough Brown Ridge Direct joins here from the left, likely same belay).
2. 25m An ice smear forms where the left wall of the bay meets with the triangular vertical wall. Climb this onto turfy slabs and continue upwards until easy ground and Tough Brown Ridge Direct joins form the right.
In good icy conditions an ice smear can form which allows a line that approximates to the summer crux (p2) of Tough Brown Ridge Direct to be climbed. When combined with a more direct first pitch this makes an independent start that is more direct up the buttress before easier ground is reached on pitch 3 of Tough Brown Ridge Direct.
1. 30m Start 5m further up Raeburn's Gully than Tough Brown Ridge Direct at the foot of a corner leading straight up to grooves that continue directly upwards. Follow these until a snow bay at the base of a large triangular wall is reached and belay at a flake on the wall on the left. (Tough Brown Ridge Direct joins here from the left, likely same belay).
2. 25m An ice smear forms where the left wall of the bay meets with the triangular vertical wall. Climb this onto turfy slabs and continue upwards until easy ground and Tough Brown Ridge Direct joins form the right.
D. Bartholomew & G. Wyllie 11/Mar/2020.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
2 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Lochnagar
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Hanging Garden Route (Left Fork)
Grade: V 4 ***
(Creag an Dubh-loch)