Rockfax Description
Stunning rock but serious climbing. Ageing pegs point the way and these can be backed up. Start on a huge boulder left of the big corner on the right-hand side of the Great Wall.
1) 6a, 40m. Pull onto the easy-angled wall and head for a protruding peg. Traverse left below this (thin tape on low spike) to and up a shallow rising ramp-line, to a point beneath a peg. Make thin, bold moves up to the peg and continue up the fingery wall above it for 5m to better holds and some wires. Move on up the still steep wall to another peg. Climb an easier shallow groove to a good jug, and move right to a corner and climb it to a stance on ledges.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb leftwards to meet the top pitch of Black Magic and finish up this. © Rockfax

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West Country Climbs

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