The original route that has sadly become overshadowed by the direct version. Crucially the original route avoids the direct pitch by turning on the LEFT, possibly even touching King Cobra, as opposed to turning on the right by Dawn Grooves as described. Pitch lengths were also misleading.

Pitch 1. 5a 45m Tackle the steep layback crack for 20m to the first sloping shelf. Continue by the corner line (wet) before crossing a thin slab left to belay. The top section can be avoided by a crack 5m left once the first shelf is reached.

2. 5b 40m Climb the right wall of the corner by a steep crack to join Dawn Grooves. Continue to a thread belay below an overhung corner.

The corner gives the direct variation. (E1 5b, 1975 Choe Brooks, Glyn Edwards, Chris Bauer later claimed by Fowler in 1977).

3. 5a 20m Step back down and left, then go up left arĂȘte of corner to reach twin cracks. Climb these past old peg to small stance and peg belay under the middle of three grooves.

4. 50m Climb groove, passing two block overhangs and overhung chimney above to belay on ledge. Signs of rockfall.

5. 25m Continue up chimney, step left and climb a crack.

6. 40m Climb narrow chimney and short V-corner to the ridge.

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Guidebooks for Sgurr Mhic Choinnich

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High E1
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High HVS
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Route of Interest
Polystyrene

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bornesketaig)

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