Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Respect The Ormes - YouTube

No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

18m.

Rockfax Description
A soft E5 since the addition of a bolt before the old run-out. There is a mid-height rest before some thin moves lead up to a large flake. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List

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User Date Notes
Luke01 23 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Soft E5 now there's a bolt before the run out.
Show beta
βeta: Soft E5 now there's a bolt before the run out.

Logged Ascents

29 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Pen Trwyn

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Bittersweet Connection

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Castell y Gwynt)

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