Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.
No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.
All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted.
Dates: 25 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
This is one of the best mid-grade extremes on the Ormes and features some superbly-positioned climbing. Head up to bulges and swing ape-like up it - bolts - until things get a bit thin around the lip. Continue upwards, with the odd wire or two required near the top. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Pen Trwyn)