Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Respect The Ormes - YouTube

No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

30m.

Rockfax Description
A strenuous and technical climb that crosses the bulge to the right of The Bearded Clam. From below the bulge pull up right to gain the long slim upper groove. This leads more easily to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List

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User Date Notes
RobertHucknall 5 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Upper groove is now bolted - very nice
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Upper groove is now bolted - very nice

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Pen Trwyn

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Greenhouse Effect

Grade: 7c ***
(The Little Orme)

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