Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Respect The Ormes - YouTube

No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

31m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A variation on The Disillusioned Screw Machine that shares the same crux. The climbing and positions are good but not quite as good as its neighbour.
1) 6a. Climb up through the bulge - thread and bolt, and then go up left to the belay of The Disillusioned Screw Machine.
2) 6b. Follow The Disillusioned Screw Machine to the scoop, then continue direct through the bulge into an open groove. Follow this until a move back left regains The Disillusioned Screw Machine. © Rockfax

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Route of Interest
Space Case

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Craig y Forwyn)

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