Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

An outcome of an attempted onsight of an overgrown terrapin. Good rope management via many extenders essential. Follow terrapin to 6 meters below its thin finishing crack (the point at which one is meant to step left and climb via a pocket to the rightwards traverse). From this point traverse along the thin break rightwards to join 'soft touch'. Ascend this route for 6 meters to the next break. Traverse rightwards a final time and ascend the VS crack to the top. A good way of enjoying all the clean rock of terrapin and accessing the top without bailing and realising you shouldn't of been lazy and just cleaned the top of terrapin.

Rob Stanfield 20/Sep/2020.

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Route of Interest
Dreadnought

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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