Restricted Access

This granite quarry was developed in the 1960ies, but due to loose rock was ignored until recently. The quarry is nicely seperated into three bays, a large eastern bay, a small central bay and a large western bay. A number of new boulder problems have been discovered in the right hand bay, while a small number of new sports routes have been developed in all three bays.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction may be lifted or modified later in the season following site visits by RSPB. The quarry is in three distinct bays, and the birds (two seperate protected species) tend to vary their exact nest sites each year. Outside of the restricted times climbers are asked to be aware that if their presence disturbs the birds (screeching sounds, and obviously agitated birds) then they should not linger beneath the nest area. Both of the left hand bays are normally restrcicted but the right hand bay, that contains the newer sports routes and the bouldering is not covered by this restriction.

 

Climbs the technical corner, make reachy insecure moves before confidently reaching for the top, highball

Dan McManus 12/Sep/2020.

Ticklists

The Dirty Dozens - North Wales Mountain Crags Vol.1 , When in Wales boulders

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Voting
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Padarn Face

Grade: f7C ***
(Craig yr Undeb (Union Rock))

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