91m, 3 pitches.
A neighbouring route of Blockbuster, giving a slightly trickier first pitch, a more consistent second pitch and sharing the excellent final pitch. Low in the grade.
1) 21m (5c). Immediately right of the first pitch of Blockbuster is another crack which quickly narrows to fingers. Climb this (sustained) passing holds on the left, then briefly stepping right and fridge hugging the next crack over, until a final few fingery moves gain flat holds and a wide footledge on the left. Belay here (large flake above).
2) 35m (5b). Climb up and onto the huge flakes. Step from the top of the tallest flake into a finger crack. Climb this for 10m until a tricky move gives way to flat holds. Immediately traverse left across ledges until directly under the leftward-facing groove of Blockbuster. Climb up into this and exit the groove onto the belay ledge on the left.
3) 35m (5b). As for the final pitch of Blockbuster.
1) 21m (5c). Immediately right of the first pitch of Blockbuster is another crack which quickly narrows to fingers. Climb this (sustained) passing holds on the left, then briefly stepping right and fridge hugging the next crack over, until a final few fingery moves gain flat holds and a wide footledge on the left. Belay here (large flake above).
2) 35m (5b). Climb up and onto the huge flakes. Step from the top of the tallest flake into a finger crack. Climb this for 10m until a tricky move gives way to flat holds. Immediately traverse left across ledges until directly under the leftward-facing groove of Blockbuster. Climb up into this and exit the groove onto the belay ledge on the left.
3) 35m (5b). As for the final pitch of Blockbuster.
J. Byrne, C. Curran 15/Aug/2020.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| kenneM | 19 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route - maybe not just as good as Blockbuster but still brilliant and should improve with traffic. Second ascent ?? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Good route - maybe not just as good as Blockbuster but still brilliant and should improve with traffic. Second ascent ?? |
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Route of Interest
Ocean Boulevard
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Fair Head)