95m, 4 pitches.
The massive right facing open book corner. Go for it in the morning shade. Thankfully more technical than thuggish. Take a couple of bolt-hangers (or wires to thread carrots with).
P1 (12) - Climb the bold-ish slab to the right of the corner to reach a spacious ledge
P2 (13) - Continue up the corner, branching left up steep blocks to gain a cosy belay in the cave beneath the crack proper
P3 (16) - Climb up the 3D chimney (carrot) to the big roof, shuffle rightwards along a good break to get round this, then continue up the big corner (carrot) to a good peg belay on a ledge (good small wires).
P4 (16) - A steep, sustained section of crack above the belay, passing a bolt, leads to jugs in the break (medium cam). One more strenuous pull gains a romp to the top up more relaxed terrain.
P1 (12) - Climb the bold-ish slab to the right of the corner to reach a spacious ledge
P2 (13) - Continue up the corner, branching left up steep blocks to gain a cosy belay in the cave beneath the crack proper
P3 (16) - Climb up the 3D chimney (carrot) to the big roof, shuffle rightwards along a good break to get round this, then continue up the big corner (carrot) to a good peg belay on a ledge (good small wires).
P4 (16) - A steep, sustained section of crack above the belay, passing a bolt, leads to jugs in the break (medium cam). One more strenuous pull gains a romp to the top up more relaxed terrain.
John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Bob Bul 06/Mar/1966.
Ticklists
17 Down Under , Mt Arapiles: classic routes not to be missed.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| sambarstow | 20 Apr, 2020 |
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βeta: Climbed it at night and it started raining on pitch 2. I dropped a credit card and had a head torch run out of battery but we made it to the top! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Climbed it at night and it started raining on pitch 2. I dropped a credit card and had a head torch run out of battery but we made it to the top! |
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Guidebooks for Arapiles - The Watchtower Faces
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Route of Interest
Brolga
Grade: 16 ***
(Arapiles - The Watchtower Faces)