Restricted Access

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

30m. An outstanding route up the wall between Tonight at Noon and Harmony. Start at a rubble filled gully beneath the wall.
Scramble up the gully to a standing position on top of a pinnacle on the left.
Step off the pinnacle on to the wall just left of a V groove and climb to a roof. Traverse carefully left and pull up in to a fragile scoop. Climb diagonally leftwards to exit the scoop out on to the steep wall above. Climb trending up and leftwards to a poor shake out beneath a compact section of rock. Powerful moves above (crux) lead to a good rest at a horizontal shelf. From the shelf make Reachy technical moves on crimps to the top. Gear is generally good but pumpy to place and almost exclusively cams across the range.

Mick Lovatt, Nick Bullock 06/Jul/2020.

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Route of Interest
Time is the Fire in Which We Burn

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)

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