Restricted Access
An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
Rockfax Description
Gain a large thread runner and then climb up over the overhang with difficulty. Finish up the arete on its left to gain the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start just below the prominent arete bounding the left side of the main crag. Move up left to a small cave, then pull up onto the roof. Panic at the lack of holds until a hidden borehole is found. Once established, climb the left side of the arete above. The route to the right is Durbin 2, Watson Nil, described below.
Gary Gibson, Roy Thomas 22/Mar/1998.
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Twlight World
Grade: 6c ***
(Third Sister to Zulu Zawn)