Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restiction applies to the whole of Hedbury Big Cove crag during nesting season.

Rockfax Description
Head rightwards up the wall finishing with flake jugs up the ramp to the belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the lower wall with a big rock over and step into the undercuts. Jugs on either side lead you to square cut edges (watch for the hollow sounding block) and then up to an amazing crimp edge before finishing with flake jugs up the ramp to the belay.

Sam Ferguson 08/Jun/2020.

Ticklists

Hedbury Sport Routes , Swanage Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 11 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Removed the loose block today. No change in grade as a result.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Removed the loose block today. No change in grade as a result.
charliephipp 19 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good climb but watch out for lose rock! Lots of holds have come off since last week. Hollow sounding block has a lot of vibration and movement so it’s probably not going to be to long before someone takes a ride.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good climb but watch out for lose rock! Lots of holds have come off since last week. Hollow sounding block has a lot of vibration and movement so it’s probably not going to be to long before someone takes a ride.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Hedbury

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last of the Summer Wine

Grade: 5c ***
(Blacknor Central)

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