38m. Brilliant, direct, uncompromising; requiring total commitment. A single crucial nut, a Rock 1 placed at the right hand end of the largest overhang on the right side of the arete, 15m above the ground, protects the crux moves. Start about 6m left of the Great Chimney and directly below the arete. Climb the right hand side of the lower part of the huge arete until it steepens, then pull onto a short ramp on the left side of the arete to place a vital Friend 1/2; step back down to adjust your cap. Move up to place the Rock 1; stretch leftwards to reach the arete. Now advance with great difficulty directly to the top. One of the most exposed lines a person can experience.

D Birkett, R Fielding 26/Apr/2003.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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User Date Notes
tintinandpip 1 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route sorted it on Saturday, lead it today, somewhat stressful but thankfully neither of us had to test the rock 1 ! Another Birkett classic finally gets a second and third ascent. ( The line on the guide topo is wrong it climbs the arete direct )
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route sorted it on Saturday, lead it today, somewhat stressful but thankfully neither of us had to test the rock 1 ! Another Birkett classic finally gets a second and third ascent. ( The line on the guide topo is wrong it climbs the arete direct )

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Route of Interest
Way Out West

Grade: E8 6c ***
(Iron Crag)

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