Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
20m.

Rockfax Description
A wild trip through the Main Cliff's stacked roof's at a reasonably accessible grade. Care is needed with the rock leading to the midway break. Start at a tree with a small notice board attached. Climb a small light coloured groove past an overlap and continue up the wall to reach the midway break. Pursue a pumpy line up steep corners, grooves and overhangs to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A Wye Valley classic, amazing route at this grade.

Roy Thomas, Graham Royle May/1990.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Ban-y-Gor Master , 3 Star sport climbs below 7b within a 25 mile radius of Bristol , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
Popo 31 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome and thrilling, very heady when you get to the overhang but all the holds are there and positive
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βeta: Awesome and thrilling, very heady when you get to the overhang but all the holds are there and positive
Steve Bartle 23 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Would advise clipping sticking the first bolt if you have one
βeta?
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βeta: Would advise clipping sticking the first bolt if you have one
dougcope 28 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Walked down just to have a look at the route and at the time (26th June 2021) the Peregrine falcon nest just to the left of the upper section is definitely still active as we saw 3 young birds flying out from there. Although the restrictions lift on the 30th of June, it might be worth giving them a couple more weeks!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Walked down just to have a look at the route and at the time (26th June 2021) the Peregrine falcon nest just to the left of the upper section is definitely still active as we saw 3 young birds flying out from there. Although the restrictions lift on the 30th of June, it might be worth giving them a couple more weeks!
mikedunk 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Detached blocks between 1st and 2nd bolts
βeta?
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βeta: Detached blocks between 1st and 2nd bolts
Saqib 29 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Wicked route
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βeta: Wicked route

Logged Ascents

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High 6c
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Votes cast 103
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