80m, 2 pitches.
Fifty metres right of Gully E the buttress steepens noticeably. Ten metres up is an
impending square shaped bulge 10m in width. The route climbs the line that forms the left side of this feature.
1. 35m A snow ramp leads to the first steepening. Turn this to reach the left side of the square shaped overhang. Tackle the steep corner above on positive hooks. Delicate climbing follows the continuation of the fault to beneath a small roof.
2. 40m Turn the roof easily. Head to the left side of a prominent fin of rock above. Steep moves using the fin lead to a good spike immediately above (20m). Step left to gain the groove that leads to a small cave 10m above. Easy terrain for 15m leads to a block belay on the Ridge.
impending square shaped bulge 10m in width. The route climbs the line that forms the left side of this feature.
1. 35m A snow ramp leads to the first steepening. Turn this to reach the left side of the square shaped overhang. Tackle the steep corner above on positive hooks. Delicate climbing follows the continuation of the fault to beneath a small roof.
2. 40m Turn the roof easily. Head to the left side of a prominent fin of rock above. Steep moves using the fin lead to a good spike immediately above (20m). Step left to gain the groove that leads to a small cave 10m above. Easy terrain for 15m leads to a block belay on the Ridge.
S.Jensen, M.Lates 03/Feb/2012.
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Route of Interest
Black Cleft
Grade: VI 7 ***
(Sgurr Mhic Choinnich)