The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Start below the corner as for Broken Trail. Move up 2m then head up the bulging wall on pockets. Step left across a groove and up the blunt nose. Move up and finish as Le Cranium Cassé. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From the boulder below left of the start of Le Cranium Cassé. Pull up on to right side of chert band move up 2m before head up bulging wall on small pockets. Step left across diagonal groove and up blunt nose direct. Gain slab and finish as Le Cranium Cassé.
FA. Martin Hallett 06/Oct/2019.
The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game , Portland
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Pottsy84 | 19 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax topo of start is way right (assuming the route description is right - start from the low rock rather than the boulder, use the right side of the chert band to gain the first ledge - the bulge right of that is pretty blank and no way goes at 6b). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax topo of start is way right (assuming the route description is right - start from the low rock rather than the boulder, use the right side of the chert band to gain the first ledge - the bulge right of that is pretty blank and no way goes at 6b). |
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Grade: 6b ***
(Blacknor Far South)